“Everyone has something to say on the subject of eggs. M.F.K. Fisher is probably the best: “One of the most private things in the world is an egg until it is broken.” The egg industry drones that eggs are incredible and edible. The French philosopher, Diderot, noted that a single egg could topple all the world’s theologies.

I’m going to be practical on the subject, because most people know how to “make eggs.” But making eggs sounds boring and habitual, and too much like “making do,” and we and eggs deserve better.

I have three things to say.

First, an egg is not an egg is not an egg. I don’t know what to call the things that are produced by hens crowded into dirty cages, their beaks snipped, tricked into laying constantly. Whatever they are, they are only edible in the sense that we can cram anything down if we need to; their secrets deserve airing, but not eating. Eggs should be laid by chickens that have as much of a say in it as any of us, about our egg laying, does…”